In the work of ” Mariot Chanet ” (derived from the names of the founders, Michèle Meunier and Olivier Chatenet), innovation never means extravagance, but rather elegance and understatement. Never succumbing to facile effects, these two former Studio Berçot students developed one of the most original styles of the nineteen-nineties.
Along the way, they acquired solid experience in the greatest fashion houses, giving them a broad and diversified point of view. Meunier first worked as a studio assistant at Chanel from 1981 to 1983. From 1983 to 1985 she was in charge of manufacturing for Commes Des Garçons, and then took over as director of the design office of Marithé and François Girbaud. Chatenet was an assistant at Azzedine Alaïa for one year before becoming licensing manager for Thierry Mugler.

Their designs put the emphasis on the natural body, enhancing it with clothes that do not hinder its evolvement in space. Well before the minimalist trend, their collections explored ranges of muted colours that heighten the purity of the silhouette. Certain designs can be transformed to modify their function. Many items created from a single piece of cloth are direct descendants of the primitive wrap.

The innovations tested in the first line, dating from 1987, found clever new applications in 1989 in the second line, ” Jersouille “, made up of small knit pieces with exclusive prints. The Mariot Chanet label continued to thrive into the nineties, supported by various financial partners as well as fellowships from ANDAM and the Ministry of Industry. Hermès asked the couple to work with its design studio on the house’s ready-to-wear lines. Then in 1997, following a divergence of opinion between the designers of Mariot Chanet and the holding company which financed it, company was dissolved.
In 1999, Michèle Meunier and Olivier Chatenet launched a new label called, quite simply, E2. More than just a fashion label, it is an original production and marketing concept which offers one-of-a-kind items and customised vintage clothes, such as antique kilts embroidered with sequins and silver leather.
In 2001, the house of Léonard named the Chatenets as their creative directors in 2001, an ideal choice in the light of their love and respect for prints and antique clothes.

In 2002, E2 participated with the biggest designers of the 20th century in the “Couturier Superstar” exhibition at the Paris Fashion Museum. Today, the couple continues to pursue the concept that made their reputation: designer pieces taken from the 1920s-1980s acquired through auctions or second hand shopping, transformed, studded or buttoned to make one-of-a-kind hand-made clothes.

Launched in 1987 by partners Hélène Nepomiatzi and Marc Gourmelen, this label had taken on the full meaning of its surrealistic name. 31 Février had come to be associated with an original style of accessories as well as the return to elegance of small, jewel-like evening handbags. The originality of their work also lies in the choice of materials and techniques which give the designs maximum effect with economical means.

Insulating felt from the construction industry or the fabric used in bedroom slippers is transformed into bags held shut by schoolbag clips, suspended from bicycle chain straps, or decorated with gilded bolts. Scraps from key cutting, sheathed in leather frames, are transformed into moucharabieh-patterned minaudière makeup bags. Half a coconut shell is carried as an exotic purse closed by a knotted madras handkerchief. The best-selling ” Viens Poupoule “, made of swan feathers, resembles a powder puff. Each design fits into a narrative theme: “Retour des Iles” (“Return to the Islands”) in 1992, “Grands Vins d’Origine” (“Great Vintage Wines”) for winter 1992, and “Ombre du Soleil” (“Shadow of the Sun”) for summer 1993.

As recipients of an ANDAM fellowship in 1990, they developed the “Soirs de Paris” collection, featuring birdcage bags in gilded metal as well as handcuff purses entitled “Descente de Police” (“Police Raid”).

The striking originality of 31 Février had won for its founders prestigious collaborations with Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Chloé, Dorothée Bis, Paco Rabanne, and Tiffany/New York.

In 1993 they opened their own shop, decorated in a French boudoir theme, and in 1996 they signed a licensing contract in Japan under the label 3+1 by 31 Février.

In 1998 they worked with Charles Jourdan on a line of shoes. Their ” Brooks ” design of open-toed evening shoes with metal chain fringe around the heels appeared in all the international fashion magazines at a time when the public’s rising interest in sophisticated accessories had made them a mainstay of the urban look.

The label 31 février stopped in 1998.
After being accessories designer for Céline, Nina Ricci and consultant for Balmain, Swarovski, Isabel Marant, Hélène Nepomiatzi launched her own handbags and accessories label in 2007.

When people mention the ” French touch* ” they could be talking about the style and attitude of Christophe Lemaire. This designer, who left the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs after a year of preparatory studies, loves to play guest DJ. His collections move to the rhythms and accents of disco and funk, mixed with African and Asian references that mingle happily with ideas borrowed from the traditional European wardrobe. The precision of the cuts evokes ” tailor-made ” quality.

He studied alongside some of fashion’s biggest names, learning from Christian Lacroix, Jean Patou, Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler. After spending four years at Christian Lacroix, Lemaire decided to spread his wings in the fashion world and in 1990 he launched his own label.

After a collaboration with Ramosport and Dorothée Bis, he submitted a brilliant proposal to ANDAM. The fellowship he received enabled him to create his own label and to show his first collection in 1990. In 1994, he was awarded the grand prix of the City of Paris for the men’s collection which he had just launched. The following year, ANDAM encouraged this development toward men’s fashion by granting him a second fellowship.

In 1999, with the backing of Japanese partners, Lemaire opened a new, more centrally located store on Rue de Sévigné, whose well-lit decor reflects his taste for Japanese culture.

In May 2001 Lemaire became creative director of heritage sportswear brand Lacoste. In ten years, he re-established the company’s position on the fashion map and was able to revive its classics, taking the original mark and mixing it with his pop-modern universe of ideas. In June 2001, under his direction, Lacoste staged its first catwalk show.

In 2007, Christophe Lemaire came back strong with his eponymous label. Inspired by the Japanese style of the 70’s, his label introduced light and flattering clothing for both men and women.

Since 2011, he is artistic director of the women RTW for the Hermes house.